Today we set off early to catch the bus out to São Vicente. Following the twisting road through the mountains, we passed through many villages, including Câmara de Lobos and Ribeira Brava. With picturesque views and cloud-covered mountains, it was worth the extra 40 minutes on the slow bus, because otherwise it was just a bland tunnel ride.
Arriving in São Vicente, we took a taxi to the trailhead. The driver managed to find a space to drop us off, the rows of cars stretched out of sight. Luckily it wasn’t that busy, we just took our time and let everyone pass us.
The beginning of the Levada Fajã do Rodrigues walk was uneventful: it was more of an access road to the water treatment plant. Eventually, however, we connected with the levada, and the real walk began. Passing a man-made waterfall and listening to the birdies, we set off down a wide and straight path. Then things got a bit more exciting…
The path opened up into a valley, and, after crouching through some overhanging rocks, we saw a majestic waterfall. Cascading over the levada, it dropped down from the cloud all the way into the valley. Trying to not get wet, we crawled under it. Rounding the corner, we saw the first of the two tunnels we were doing. Putting on a head-torch, we ventured into the dark…
After crouching and precariously inching our way along the tunnel, we made it out alive. The final tunnel was still ahead of us, only this time it was twice the length and narrower.
Dad had the most difficulty – the backpack jutting out from his back kept scraping against the low ceiling. I think we all had aching backs after that. Regardless, we had made it to a valley of wonder. It began with a waterfall cascading straight onto the path. Zipping up, we crossed the wall of water. By now you could see the raging river at the bottom of the valley.
Then, slowly, a majestic waterfall rose into sight. It was very, very high and guarded the entrance to the very, very long tunnel. Mum was our excuse to turn around, luckily.
The hike back was just as good as it was before, but the clouds had dissipated, offering views of the mountains. Before long we were back at the start, but our walk wasn’t over yet.
We began the seemingly easy walk back down to São Vicente. With very direct streets, it should’ve taken barely any time at all, but for the fact that very direct means very steep.
An hour later and we had made it level with the town, with only an hour and a half to have lunch and get on the bus. Considering we weren’t finished yet, we had to motor into town. Finding the least busy place, we ordered the best looking things…
I had a prego no bolo do caco, Mum a fish soup and Dad fried fish with greens, potatoes and more. My meat sandwich was nice and garlicky; even though the meat wasn’t juicy, it was still great. Mum said her soup was good and Dad was too stuffed to finish his. All in all, it was delicious.
With ample time now, we walked over to the bus stop. We switched to the express bus in Ribeira Brava and shaved 40 minutes off our journey. It was an exciting adventure and a brilliant day out.
