The stunning PR1 mountain trail on Pico do Areeiro to the Pedra Rija viewpoint is a must-do in Madeira. But right up until the moment we stepped onto the path, we still weren’t fully decided to do it.

It’s the drone footage of Pico do Areeiro that sells Madeira to so many. Understandably, people flock there. However, following last years’ forest fires, only the 1.2km to Miradouro Pedra Rija is open – so from the observatory you can see an almost unending single file of sheeple. With only a slight bleat about not doing it because it looks too busy, we join the flock.

Pico do Areeiro is a legal high.

Madeira’s signature walk is gravity-defying – threading its way across an impossibly narrow ridge. The going is tough with steep and twisting steps chiselled into the jagged shard of mountain. Awe-inspiring views are a constant companion, as are the terrifying drops into bottomless shadow on all sides.

You’re above the clouds in the crystalline spring morning light walking on a knife-edge between light and dark, life and death. The landscape is pure drama – raw and elemental – ancient rock spectacularly shaped by the fires of volcanism, and the ice and wind of the mountain weather. It’s a rush. It’s all a stairway to heaven.

I’m no hippy, but this walk is transcendental – the sheer scale of the exaggerated landscape and the closeness of the clear blue sky – you literally are above it all. Overwhelming views and hormone-triggering drops mean your mind approaches a peaceful flow state – there’s no room for the clutter of idle thoughts. Everything is vivid, sharp and fresh. It’s a legal high.

Is the trail overcrowded? Absolutely. Have this place to yourself and it wouldn’t be a stairway, it would be heaven. But 95% of the time, you’re in that flow state and barely notice everyone. I’m more than happy to report we were wrong in thinking the crowds would ruin it for us.