Pastéis de nata are one of the first things you’ll hear about, and encounter, in Madeira. They are virtually a daily snack. I say they’re part of the local culture, allowing me to eat them many times as its ‘experiencing Madeira’.

These simple custard tarts have three elements. Firstly, the custard – this is the most important bit. It varies in taste and texture from place to place. Secondly, the pastry – crispy and buttery – this helps keep the custard in place whilst also offering flavour. And finally, espresso, even though I don’t have it, I say it’s an important part of pastéis de nata. Combining bitter with sweet, it’s apparently the perfect snack.

Nata 7 offers some of the best pastéis de nata. This specialist cafe sells, well, pastéis de nata and coffee. Apparently they’re too greasy for Mum and Dad, but I love them, even if they’re a bit small.

When we went out to Ribeiro Frio we stopped in a restaurant to have morning tea. We had a pastel de nata each. They were perfect – warm custard, but still set, wrapped in a golden pastry. There were no crumbs left. Probably the best pastéis de nata we’ll have.

Padaria do Livramento is our local bakery. One day we tried the pastéis de nata there and were pleasantly surprised. Being the biggest yet, they made up for lower flavour with quantity, and with easy access. This meant that the bakery is the top place for me, even though the Ribeiro Frio restaurant did better ones, we’ll never go there again. Whereas…