Our food philosophy is simple: maximum memories for our money. In Funchal, we’ve quickly established something of a pattern – eating habits that have come about organically as we explore the city. You won’t find us in any of the high-end white-tablecloth places with the jacketed waiters – look for us in the lanes and alleys.
Breakfast, brunch or morning tea
By far our most popular morning repast is pastéis de nata with coffee (water for Alfie). These custard delights need no introduction from us, but here’s one anyway and another. Less than €2 for a delicious sweet treat and rich caffeine hit? Best value in town.
Nata 7 has become a firm favourite. Good coffee and good tarts – a teensy bit oily and sweeter than perfection – but delicious. The service is so smooth and so friendly that Alfie orders for us by himself in Portuguese.
Other favourites include our local Padaria do Livramento, where Alfie loves the giant pastéis, and Padaria Sésamo in town, which has an incredible long glass counter filled with sweet treats and the coffee is fantastic.
In most bakeries you’ll find a little ticket machine – take a number and join the throng. Because there should be a crowd if you’re in the right place at the right time of day. A great place to practice Portuguese under pressure.

Snack bar lunch
The absolute best places to eat for us are the tiny snack bars one-step back from the main streets. Find one with small tables or leaners on the street where a gaggle of locals are eating something delicious off paper serviettes. Look for a blackboard offering a freshly chalked special that tickles your tastebuds.
Seafood sandwiches are favourites of Cheryl and me. Scabbard fish fillets (espada), octopus (polvo) or tuna (atum) – plain or escabeche – in crisp, fluffy, fresh bread rolls. Salty, zesty goodness sets your tastebuds up perfectly for the crisp and refreshing Coral beer (or fresh juice if you’re Alfie).
Alfie is a big fan of prego no bolo do caco – where garlic bread meets steak sandwich in a pairing as good as it sounds. And picadinho doesn’t last too long in the middle of the table, where we all dip hot chips into the well of meaty gravy.
About €5 each for a filling lunch with a drink? We don’t need more.

Dinner
We don’t eat out much in the evening for a few reasons. Firstly, after a full day out we’re usually exhausted and the Portuguese eat much later than we’re used to. Secondly, we’re not in the town centre so we’d have to stay in town later or add a round trip home and back. Thirdly, dinner is the graveyard of budgets! Less casual, less grab-and-go, the wine flows and the desserts become too tempting.
So, in the evenings, we usually cook at home, beautiful local produce from the local market and supermarkets. Perfect sitting out on our terrace overlooking the sea.